Police impound auctions bring together two realities most tool buyers rarely see in the same place: civic inventory that must be moved and practical equipment that still holds plenty of working life. If you need a chainsaw for property maintenance, storm cleanup, or occasional firewood cutting, these sales can be a straightforward way to save money—provided you know how the process works and what you are looking at. This guide explains the moving parts, highlights common pitfalls, and gives you a repeatable method to evaluate value.

Unlike typical retail, impound auctions are unapologetically “as-is.” That phrase is a promise and a warning. With a basic plan—where to look, how to inspect, what to bid, and how to refurbish—you can replace anxiety with informed decisions.

Outline:
– How impound auctions function and where to find chainsaws
– Inspection and testing: a practical checklist for used saws
– Pricing, fees, and bidding strategies grounded in reality
– Safety, legal, and environmental factors that matter
– Refurbishment, maintenance, and a buyer’s roadmap (conclusion)

How Police Impound Auctions Work and Where to Find Chainsaws

Police impound auctions dispose of items acquired through seizure, abandonment, or unclaimed property processes. Once legal holds are released, departments transfer lots to municipal surplus channels or partner auctioneers. The goal is transparency and throughput: move items lawfully, document a clean chain of custody, and recover public funds. You’ll typically encounter two formats: in-person bidding at a municipal yard and timed online listings managed by third-party auction platforms. Frequency varies by jurisdiction—some run quarterly events, others bundle surplus across agencies and list when volume is sufficient.

Expect clear terms published ahead of time. Common elements include:
– Preview windows: often same-day or one day prior, sometimes as brief as 1–2 hours per lot group.
– Buyer’s premium: commonly 5–15%, added to the hammer price.
– Taxes: local sales tax applied unless you present qualifying documentation such as a resale certificate.
– Payment timing: often due within 24–72 hours.
– Removal deadlines: typically 3–5 business days to pick up items.
– Condition: sold “as-is, where-is,” with no warranty or returns.

Locating chainsaw listings is easier when you check multiple sources. Start with your city or county surplus page and regional law enforcement announcements, then compare with general government-surplus marketplaces and local auctioneers that handle public agency disposals. Set saved searches for terms like “chainsaw,” “chain saw,” “2-stroke saw,” and “gas saw.” Watch for batch lots; sometimes a chainsaw is bundled with tarps, yard tools, or safety gear. Inventory quality swings from nearly new to clearly abused, which is why previewing matters. When in-person viewing isn’t possible, lean on high-resolution photos, lot descriptions, and any posted operational notes (e.g., “pulls, not tested” versus “runs, idles”). Knowing the language of auction shorthand helps you separate possible quick wins from likely projects.

Inspection and Testing: A Field Checklist for Used Chainsaws

Inspection is where value is either discovered or destroyed. Bring gloves, a small flashlight, a clean rag, and, if allowed, a spark plug wrench and compression gauge. Many auctions prohibit fuel on-site, so assume you will not be able to fully run a saw; instead, practice “dry” checks to approximate condition.

Start with the bar and chain. Look for:
– Bar rails: mushroomed edges and blueing indicate heat; heavy burrs suggest long-term neglect.
– Sprocket: shark-tooth wear means the drive system has seen many hours.
– Chain: stretched links and uneven teeth hint at poor sharpening habits.
– Oiler function: if previews allow, rotate the chain by hand; a dry, dusty bar often means the oiler may be clogged.

Move to the powerhead. Pull the starter slowly to feel for consistent resistance; weak or “airy” pull can point to low compression. Healthy small two-strokes often show 120–160 psi on a warm engine; on a cold, long-stored unit, readings below ~100 psi warrant caution and a price adjustment. Peek through the exhaust port (if accessible) for scoring on the piston—vertical scratches imply heat or lean running. Check:
– Air filter: caked debris restricts airflow and can hint at overall maintenance habits.
– Fuel system: brittle lines, sweating gaskets, and cracked primer bulbs are common but inexpensive to replace.
– Carburetor: external grime is normal; thick varnish smell implies long storage with old fuel.
– Safety gear: confirm the chain brake clicks on/off, throttle lockout returns, and the stop switch moves freely.
– Mounts and handles: soft, intact anti-vibration buffers reduce fatigue; torn mounts transmit harsh vibrations.

Scan the body for cracked cases, missing fasteners, or homemade “fixes” like tape holding a handle. Superficial cosmetics are fine; structural fractures are not. Remove the clutch cover if permitted and check for packed chips—overheating starts here. Examine the spark plug’s color; dry, light tan suggests cleaner combustion than oily black fouling. Finally, compare serial plates and lot tags to the description to confirm you are inspecting the correct unit. At impound sales, items are cleared for disposal, but diligence protects you from mix-ups and mismatched parts.

Pricing, Fees, and Bidding Strategy You Can Actually Use

Set your ceiling before the adrenaline of bidding kicks in. Start with a fair-market snapshot: review local classifieds, hardware resale listings, and tool forums to estimate typical prices for comparable displacement and bar length in working and non-running condition. Because auction items are “as-is,” apply a condition discount. A reasonable rule of thumb:
– Unknown running condition: reduce value by 30–60% from typical used price.
– Known non-running but complete: reduce by 60–75%.
– Running and idling at preview: reduce by 10–25% to account for undisclosed issues.

Now account for all add-ons. Tally:
– Buyer’s premium (e.g., 10% of hammer price).
– Sales tax.
– Parts and supplies: chain ($15–35), bar ($30–60), spark plug ($3–8), air filter ($5–15), fuel line and filter ($5–10), carburetor kit ($10–25), bar oil and 2-stroke mix.
– Your time: even a modest refurbishment can take 2–4 hours.

Consider a quick example. Suppose a similar running used saw sells locally for $220. At auction you find a unit that pulls with compression but can’t be fueled on-site. You choose an “unknown” discount of 45%: target value ≈ $121. Add a 10% buyer’s premium ($12), 8% tax ($10), and $40 in likely parts. Your all-in ceiling becomes roughly $183. If bidding passes that number, step back. Let someone else inherit the risk and the math.

Strategy-wise, boring is effective. Enter late only if rules allow, raise in small, deliberate increments, and ignore baiting. Online, place a firm max and let proxy bidding work; chasing bids manually invites overspend. In person, keep your calculator open and your body language calm. Walk away power is a real edge. Remember: more auctions are coming, and patience is often the most valuable tool on the table.

Safety, Legal, and Environmental Factors That Matter

Even a modest chainsaw is powerful enough to demand respect. Before you think about the first cut, budget for personal protective equipment. At a minimum:
– Eye protection: shatter-resistant lenses with side coverage.
– Hearing protection: earmuffs or plugs rated for high decibel noise; many saws exceed 100 dB at full throttle.
– Gloves: cut-resistant with good grip.
– Leg protection: chainsaw chaps designed to jam the chain in an emergency.
– Boots: sturdy footwear with traction and toe protection.

Confirm the saw’s safety systems. The chain brake should engage with a positive click and stop chain rotation instantly. Throttle lockout must prevent accidental revs. A functioning stop switch is non-negotiable. Inspect anti-vibration mounts; reduced vibration isn’t just comfort—it’s about long-term hand and wrist health. Transport with a scabbard or remove the bar and chain entirely; a loose, exposed chain in a vehicle is a hazard and may violate local transport rules.

Legal aspects revolve around clarity and compliance. Auction terms spell out responsibility once the hammer falls: payment deadlines, pickup windows, and liability during removal. Tools are generally free of encumbrances at public auctions, but always read the lot notes. Keep purchase receipts; they help with warranty questions for aftermarket parts, insurance documentation, and, if you resell, proof of lawful acquisition. If you operate a business, ask your tax professional about resale or exemption certificates; paperwork done right can legitimately reduce costs.

Environmental practices extend the life of your saw and protect your workspace. Use fresh fuel mixed to the manufacturer’s ratio; old ethanol-heavy gas can cause varnish, sticky needles, and brittle lines. Store fuel in approved containers away from heat sources, label dates, and rotate regularly. Bar oil keeps the chain alive; biodegradable formulations are worth considering for cutting near soil and water. Collect used filters, oily rags, and drained fuel in proper containers and dispose of them at local hazardous waste facilities. Finally, know your local noise and cutting ordinances—quiet hours and seasonal restrictions can apply, especially in dense neighborhoods or fire-prone regions.

Refurbishment, Maintenance, and a Buyer’s Roadmap (Conclusion)

Refurbishing an impound chainsaw is part sleuthing, part ritual. Start with a deep clean: blow out fins and covers, brush the clutch area, and clean the bar groove. Replace consumables by default—spark plug, fuel filter, and air filter are low-cost insurance. Inspect the bar’s rails; if they are uneven, file them flat and flip the bar to even future wear. Fit a fresh chain and set correct tension: snug enough to hold to the bar yet loose enough to pull by hand with a gloved finger. Lubricate the sprocket nose if it has a grease port, and verify the oiler flow by running the chain briefly over clean cardboard outdoors—look for a light oil trace.

Fuel system attention pays dividends. If the saw stumbles on throttle, a carburetor cleaning and a new diaphragm kit often restore crisp response. Replace brittle fuel lines and cracked primer bulbs. Check impulse lines for splits, which cause erratic idle. Confirm intake and exhaust gaskets aren’t leaking; an air leak can lead to a lean condition and hot running. Set idle so the chain does not creep and verify acceleration without bogging. If compression is marginal, weigh the cost of piston and cylinder parts against the market value; projects can be educational but still must make financial sense.

Keep a simple ledger for each purchase:
– Hammer price plus buyer’s premium and tax.
– Parts list, costs, and dates installed.
– Hours spent and test notes (compression readings, idle quality, max RPM if you have a tach).
This record makes future maintenance easier and, if you resell, signals care to the next owner.

Conclusion: This market rewards preparation, not luck. Learn the flow of your local auctions, carry a concise inspection method, and price with all fees and fixes in the equation. If you are buying for personal use, target dependable function over cosmetic perfection. If you are buying to flip, focus on quick wins: complete saws with clear compression, intact safety features, and simple fuel issues you can resolve in an evening. Either way, move slowly, bid deliberately, and let well-kept notes steer your decisions. With that approach, a police impound chainsaw can go from dusty shelf occupant to reliable weekend workmate without drama or guesswork.